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Topel Winery — The hidden jewel of Mendocino’s Duncan Peak
Back in 1980, Mark Topel was a self-described “cocky young criminal lawyer” when he decided to pose for a portrait at the behest of his Berkeley neighbor, an art broker who represented a talented painter living in an artists’ colony in Hopland.
Mark made the trek to the painter’s home, located up a narrow gravel road on the side of Duncan Peak in southern Mendocino County. The remote, peaceful setting was a far cry from the daily cacophony and drama of the courtroom scene. Sensing that his subject was enamored with the surroundings, the artist casually mentioned that an old sheep farm just up the road happened to be for sale. The canvas and paint brushes were set aside, and within hours, Mark wrote up a contract and purchased the 14-acre farm on the spot.
From Retreat to Vineyards
For several years, the land was simply a retreat for Mark, who added acreage to the parcel as neighboring land came up for sale. But that all changed with a Napa Valley criminal case. As the lead defense attorney, Mark spent a significant amount of time in Wine Country and became friends with several well-known winemakers. They learned about his love of French wines, his extensive wine collection and his very special property outside Hopland.
“They told me that Hopland was a great place to grow Cabernet Sauvignon because it was warm, like Napa. Several came out to take a first-hand look at the property and they said it was a perfect spot — multiple exposures across the side of the mountain and crappy soil — absolutely ideal conditions to get the best flavors imaginable,” he said. Mark and his wife, Donnis, staked out the first vineyard themselves, often crawling under low-lying brush to set the borders. “One thing led to another and before we knew it, vines were planted and I was auditing winemaking classes at U.C.-Davis.”
Spiritual Sustenance
Mark and Donnis, a former pastry chef and gifted dancer, then built a small winery and their dream house on the estate and moved there for “spiritual sustenance.” While Mark is the winemaker, Donnis is the marketing guru and the administrative glue —and takes an active part in winemaking as well. “She has a tremendous aesthetic sense that impacts everything she touches,” said Mark. “Her background in cooking is a remarkable asset, especially when it comes to blending the wines.”
In 1993, Topel Winery released its first vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon from the aptly named “Hidden Vineyard.” Today, Topel also produces Syrah and Pinot Noir from fruit sourced in Monterey County. The wines are rich, laden with highly extracted fruit flavors, yet perfectly balanced — reflecting the nuances of climate, soil, rootstocks and clones in artful combinations.
